Frequently Asked Questions

It depends on the foam and the area. Contractors often price foam by the board foot, one square foot at one inch thick, so 2 inches over 1,000 square feet is 2,000 board feet. HomeGuide's national installed range is $1.50 to $3.50 per square foot for open-cell and $3.00 to $5.00 for closed-cell. Your written estimate lists the inches and the price for each area.

Texas uses the 2015 International Residential Code, Chapter 11, as its statewide energy standard for houses, in effect since September 1, 2016. For Climate Zone 3, which includes Hopkins County, that means R-38 ceilings and R-20 or R-13 plus R-5 continuous in wood-frame walls. Some cities adopt newer codes, so check with the local building office on permitted work.

Cured foam is a plastic and it will burn, which is why the residential code requires a thermal barrier such as half-inch drywall between foam and living space, and an ignition barrier in many attics and crawl spaces. We tell you which applies to each area and include it in the quote when it is needed.

Several chemical companies make two-part foam systems in both open-cell and closed-cell versions. We name the product on your quote and can give you its data sheet, which lists the R-value per inch and the barrier rules for that foam.

Open-cell is the usual choice under the roof deck of a sealed attic and inside walls, because it fills the space for less money. Closed-cell suits metal buildings, raised floors and tight spots, because it is denser, higher in R-value per inch and slows moisture.

HomeGuide advises staying out for at least 24 hours while spray foam cures. We ventilate the work area and give you a time to come back when we schedule the job.

Often, yes. Closed-cell foam on bare steel stops the dripping that happens when warm, humid air hits cold metal, and it slows heat through a roof that sits in full sun. If the building is only for storage, a thinner coat may be enough, and we will say so.

Batts and loose fill slow heat but air can pass through them, so they need a sealed surface to work well. Foam seals the surface it is sprayed on and insulates in the same layer. That is why it is used on roof decks, rim boards and raised floors, where sealing with other materials is hard.

That depends on the target R-value. At HomeGuide's R-3.5 to R-3.7 per inch, open-cell takes about 5.5 inches to reach roughly R-20. Closed-cell at R-5 to R-7 per inch gets there in about 3 to 4 inches. Your quote lists the inches for each area.

There is an odor while it goes on and while it cures, which is why everyone stays out for at least 24 hours per HomeGuide and the space gets ventilated. A properly mixed, fully cured install should not keep smelling.

It can slow how fast a leak shows inside, so we check the roof first and spray only over dry, sound decking. Open-cell lets some moisture through, so a leak usually shows up as a damp patch on the foam.

The statewide standard is the 2015 IRC, Chapter 11, which lists R-38 for ceilings in Climate Zone 3. That applies to new construction and permitted work; older houses are not required to upgrade, but it is a sensible target.

It depends on the material, since the R-value per inch differs. The bag label lists the depth needed for each R-value. We set rulers in the attic so you can see it.

Often it is, because the ducts stop sitting in extreme heat. It costs more than blowing in on the floor, so we price both and explain the trade-off.

Yes, if it is dry and clean. If it is wet, moldy or contaminated by rodents, it should come out first.

Enough to keep the inside face of the foam above the dew point, which in practice often means an inch or two of closed-cell for a building that only needs to stop dripping and more for a conditioned shop. We set the thickness on the quote.

We usually do not. Foam needs to bond to the steel to stop condensation. Old blanket that is torn or sagging comes out first.

Closed-cell foam bonded to the steel does, because humid air can no longer reach the cold metal. Open eaves and doors still let air in, so we talk through ventilation too.

Usually, because there is nothing to move or work around. If your building is still on order, call before the liner panels go in.

If the crawl space is vented and fairly dry, insulating the floor is simpler. If ducts or plumbing run down there, or the space stays damp, sealing it and insulating the walls usually works better.

In most crawl spaces here, yes. Bare soil gives off a lot of moisture, and a ground cover keeps it out of the air under the house.

Most older pier-and-beam floors have little or no insulation and leak air around pipes and the edges. Sealing and insulating under the floor makes a clear difference.

Not if the space is sealed properly with a ground cover and has a way to dry the air. Closing vents without those steps can cause problems, which is why we do it as a package.

It depends on where the ducts are and what the attic looks like. With ducts inside the house, a sealed ceiling with blown-in is usually the better value. With the air handler in the attic, foam on the roof deck often makes more sense.

Some, especially cellulose. Installers allow for that by blowing to a slightly deeper initial depth listed on the bag.

Yes, if the old material is dry and free of mold and droppings.

Most single-family attics take a day or less, including the sealing.

Stains, a musty or animal smell, visible droppings, matted or very thin spots, and insulation that has been wet are the common signs. We check and tell you whether it can stay.

It is dusty work, but a vacuum system sends the material outside through a hose, and we cover the route through the house.

Usually, yes, once the animals are gone and entry points are sealed. Contaminated insulation keeps the odor and can attract new pests.

Some homeowners do, but it is dusty, hot work, and you need a way to haul and dispose of the material. Do not touch vermiculite without testing.